We’re just a kilometre away from the cabin when our guide, Jessica, suggests we take a break. Without the creak of the snowshoes on the fresh snow, the first thing you notice is the silence. As our ears adjust, we start to pick up other noises, the sound of our breathing, the wind tickling the tops of the pine trees, the cracking of a distant branch (a phenomenon caused by the pressure of the sap freezing and expanding). 


We’re two days into our activity week based at Kylmoluoma, in the heart of the Hossa National Park, close to the border with Russia. This morning we left our cosy wooden chalets and set off on an overnight adventure, snowshoeing across frozen lakes and along forested ridges to a cabin with no electricity or running water. 

We arrive just as the long arctic night begins to envelope us. The cabin is certainly not short on atmosphere. Tonight we must fend for ourselves and we divide the jobs; collecting water from the well, chopping wood, lighting fires in the communal areas, bedrooms, and in the separate wood fired sauna. We’re soon warm and sitting down to a hearty meal of moose stew and potatoes, eaten by candle light. 


At dinner Jessica informs us that the cabin has its own ghost (of course it does!). A friendly one, we are assured, but I instantly regret my decision to sleep in the living/kitchen area alone tonight.  Gusto‘s footsteps have been heard circling the sauna, and pacing the kitchen in the wee hours (looking for left over moose stew perhaps?).

Conversation turns to the sauna (a Finnish obsession). The wood-fired sauna is one of the oldest types, and we are encouraged to embrace tradition with a roll in the snow to cool down in between sauna sessions. Jessica’s enthusiasm for doing things ‘The Finnish Way’ is strangely infectious and, with dinner cleared away, we make our way down the lantern lined path to the sauna, which is lit inside by a single candle.


We take turns chucking water on the fire-heated stones. The temperature soon reaches in excess of 80c (the Finns like their saunas HOT!). With the soaring temperature any reluctance to take a roll in the snow disappears and we head outside. “1, 2, 3, ROLL!”. After issuing some inventive expletives, and with snow still clinging to our skin, we run back into the steam for another go.

Back in the cabin and tucked up in our sleeping bags, Jessica offers to sing us a Lappish lullaby. A fitting end to the day. It’s soothing, yet haunting. The words tell of the difficulties of winter, but also of the beauty that can be found in the dark, peaceful nights, the starry skies, the chill winds and the fresh snowfall. I couldn’t agree more. The last sounds I hear before I drift off are laughter from the gang sleeping in the next room, and the crackling of the fire. Happily Gusto does not make an appearance.

As well as the overnight snowshoe adventure, KE’s Finland Winter Activity Week also includes an introduction to husky sledding, cross country skiing and a day to master traditional skills such as fire making, igloo building and ice fishing. There are still places available in February and March.

Do you want to know more about KE's Finland - Winter Activity Week? Just give Caroline or a member of our adventure-loving team a call on +017687 29608 or USA/Canada toll-free 1888 630 4415.