Japan’s mix of ultra-modern cities and timeless traditions makes it one of the most fascinating destinations for a walking holiday. In this blog, Alex shares his highlights from our Japan: Nakasendo Trail and Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage trip. From peaceful forest paths and ancient post towns to hot spring soaks and high-speed bullet trains, Alex’s reflections paint a vivid picture of what it’s really like to explore Japan on foot...

Japan had long been at the top of my travel wish list. I’d imagined the bright lights of Tokyo, bullet trains and ultra-modern cities with all the cutting-edge technology — but I also wanted to head into the countryside and meet the Japanese people. KE's Japan: Nakasendo Trail and Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage trip ticked many of the highlights but also included two of the country’s legendary walking trails.

I was surprised by how comfortably the old and the new sit side by side in Japan. Shortly after I was following an ancient path lined with stone markers, I was on a bullet train to the next destination and on to a ryokan, where a hot onsen bath and beautifully prepared meal were waiting. This contrast between the modern and the traditional, along with the amazing hospitality, made the trip feel special and uniquely Japanese.

One of the best things about this tour is that it includes two of Japan’s most iconic trails, each offering a very different experience in a different part of the country. It’s during these sections of the trip that we got to experience the most interesting parts of Japanese culture: staying in traditional ryokan inns and enjoying local food was an unforgettable part of the holiday.

The Nakasendo Trail was once used by feudal lords and merchants travelling between Kyoto and Tokyo. Walking it gives a real sense of what travel was like during the Edo period, back when walking was the only practical way to move between the two cities.

Stone paths lead through forests and into remarkably well-preserved post towns, with wooden inns, lanterns and old waterwheels. There are 69 of these post towns along the trail. My favourite was Narai, once the wealthiest town on the Nakasendo and the official halfway point between Kyoto and Edo.

The three days on the Kumano Kodo were a wonderful way to end the holiday. Unlike the Nakasendo Trail, which was a historic trade route, the Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage path. It’s one of only a few in the world, alongside Spain’s Camino de Santiago, to hold UNESCO World Heritage status.

Reaching the trailheads was part of the experience — we used Japan’s excellent public transport, combining buses and trains to access the more remote areas. The walking itself was varied, with a mix of forest tracks, stone steps and mountain climbs, but always well-marked and manageable. Along the way, we passed several fascinating Shinto shrines, including the impressive Kumano Hongu Taisha.

One of the real highlights of the trip for me was the accommodation. We stayed in a countryside ryokan — traditional Japanese inns that have been welcoming travellers for generations. The rooms were simple and peaceful, with tatami mat floors, sliding doors and futon bedding. I wasn’t sure how comfortable it would be sleeping on the floor, but the futons were surprisingly cosy and I slept really well.

After a busy day of walking, you could soak in the onsen (traditional hot bath) before dinner — something to really look forward to. Dinner was usually a multi-course meal served in the dining room. Many of us wore the kimonos provided by the ryokan, which added to the experience.

Meals included a range of wonderful Japanese dishes — lots of small plates of fish and sushi, meat and vegetables, tofu, miso soup, etc. On one occasion, a robot waiter served our meal — a small but amusing reminder of how modern and traditional often sit side by side in Japan.

One thing I was really looking forward to on this holiday was the transport. I’d always wanted to travel on a bullet train in particular and it didn’t disappoint.

Throughout the trip, we mainly used public transport — a mix of high-speed bullet trains, smaller local trains, public buses and metro systems during the city tours. Everything was modern, clean and incredibly punctual. It was definitely the best way to get around and see the country. The bullet train was especially impressive — smooth, fast and so quiet it hardly felt like we were moving. Even the smaller local trains seemed to run like clockwork.

We saw a lot in 14 days — from the huge metropolis of Tokyo to the calm of ancient forest trails in the countryside. The contrast between busy cities and peaceful countryside, modern transport and traditional inns, was what made the trip so memorable. Every day offered something different and there were plenty of small surprises along the way. It was a well-balanced, well-organised holiday and I genuinely loved every part of it.